Surfing the Mentawais: A journal from my year abroad
A year ago, I embarked on an unforgettable adventure that took me to the heart of the Mentawais Island chain. Reflecting on this incredible journey from Arthur's homestay, situated right in front of the world-famous wave called Telescopes, brings back so many vivid memories.
The trip began with the usual hiccup of lost bags from Bali to Padang, leaving me stranded at the airport for four hours. Despite this setback, the transition from Bali's bustling atmosphere to the authentic Indonesian experience of Padang and Sipura was a welcome change. The lack of tourists, aside from a handful of surfers, made me feel like I had stumbled upon a hidden gem. The locals, always eager to take a photo with me, showed an incredible kindness that opened my eyes to new perspectives. It's moments like these that fuel my passion for exploring new places and immersing myself in different cultures.
After finally retrieving my bags, I made my way to Sipura Island via a three-hour fast ferry ride. The island, resembling something out of "Life of Pi," was magical, with its stunning ocean views. On my first day, I ventured out to surf Telescopes, a 200-meter-long left-hand point reef break with perfectly clear, immaculate blue water and a powerful wall of water. The stoke was high as I surfed the perfect mechanical wave, accessible only by boat, making every session feel like a true adventure.
The next day, we surfed Telescopes again before heading to another break called Icelands. Icelands, known for its larger waves due to the unique reef structure, offered us two days of epic surfing with no one else in sight. My friend Mauricio and I had the entire break to ourselves, sharing massive waves and experiencing some of the biggest faces I've ever surfed. It felt like a chapter from the barbarian surfing days, complete with uncomfortable hold downs from monster sets.
As the days passed, I spent my evenings enjoying the most beautiful sunsets, often as the only person on the beach. These moments were truly magical, solidifying the Mentawais as a place that amazed me more every day.
Three weeks flew by, and the fear and unease of the new environment quickly transformed into excitement and community. I started taking the biggest waves without fear, going for deep barrels despite the shallow reef and fire coral below, and making connections with the locals. Mornings were spent taking a boat to the least crowded surf spots, sometimes scoring waves with just our boat. Afternoons involved playing chess at a local café, sipping arak (coconut wine), and savoring the crisp taste of Bintangs.
One particularly adventurous day stands out in my surf journal:
June 9 - Mentawais - Secret Spot
Today was an adventure. I passed up going to Telescopes with Chris and Felix to avoid the crowds and waited for Rinto, who couldn’t surf. So, I walked to a spot past two houses, found a trail leading into a thick mangrove jungle, and decided to venture alone. After a grueling 10 minutes of bushwhacking, I turned back, should have brought my machete. Eventually, I found a path along the beach, through the jungle, and to a perfect surf spot. There, I met Sky, another surfer with great vibes. We caught some bombs, and I got two barrels, wiping out harder than ever and cutting my foot on the reef. Despite the intensity, it felt like surfing in barbarian days. At the end of the session, worried about the tide damaging my board, I paddled back in and heard my buddy Bruce calling from a boat, offering a lift to the harbor. It’s amazing to have friends in such a remote place.
Back at the harbor, Rinto showed up. My foot was bleeding, and I had no shoes, just my surfboard. We stuffed the boards into a bag and hopped on his scooter, racing through Sipura. My forearm got pumped, but we made it back to the homestay. The day ended perfectly with beers, fried noodles and rice, and three hours of chess with James at his café.
Aside from surfing, I spent time hanging out at local cafés, exploring the island on a scooter without a helmet, finding hidden waterfalls in the jungle, cooking fish on the beach with coconuts as coals, and drinking crisp Bintangs. Before leaving, I gifted a Pronto board to Rinto, hoping he continues to rip on those perfect waves.
This journey was a profound experience, blending adventure, culture, and the pure joy of surfing. The Mentawais will always hold a special place in my heart, reminding me of why I surf and the passion that drives me to these remote corners of the world.
